Glacial Adventures

Mt Cook! Tis very splendiferous views. A steep steep climb up to the Mueller Hut, but well worth it on a good day. This is Mt Cook in the background, and Adil a friendly Isreali chap that we met at the top.


Me and Mikael (from Otekaieke - one of the earlier farms I've been wwoofing at) planned to go up to the Mueller Hut this weekend, and were going to get to the bottom of it on Friday night so as to be able to bag a place in the Mueller Hut (something like 1800m up I think) , which is limited to 28 bunks or so. But the weather on Friday looked pretty poor, and the weather forecast even worse, so we decided to not bust a gut on Friday and just see what happened on Saturday.

And to my great suprise and glee the weather on Saturday morning was fantasticly perfect, so I pegged it from Wanaka, picked up Mikael at Omarama, and drove onto the base of Mt Cook where, unfortunatetly, we found that the hut was full already. Boo hoo. But it is not a long walk - jsut steep - so easy to do in one day.

This is me and my knobbly knees surrounded by the sound of crashing snow and hot sun - happy to be at the top and within site of the Hut.


This is part of the magnificent view from the Mueller Hut where we stopped to make angels in the snow. Racing clouds curling over the peaks.


And some very friendly Kea who led the way back down again as dusk began to pull shadows up the valley sides.


Again again the foredcast lies. Sunday morning was another beautiful morning, so we went to see the biggest Glacier in NZ - it's harder to see than the one from Mueller Hut because it is covered in alot of rubble (arhh I'm sure it has a technical name - not Moraine? - my GCSE Geography is beginning to fail me...). It is also getting smaller incredibly quickly which is what all this water - or "slump" is about. The island in the bottom right corner is actually a muddy wee iceberg cruising. Apparently the glacier is receding by 0.5% a year, which is incredible.


And then a swim in a turquoise coloured lake (I promise it is turquiose - those damned cameras are failing me again in painting a true picture)

Sweet Georgia Brown

This is 3 month old Georgia - a very smiley little one who likes singing and farting and flying. I've been babysitting her a bit for the past week or so and have really enjoyed it - she is a cool baby! But I'm not getting broody (sorry mum, you'll have to wait).


Georgia lives half way between Te Anau and Manapouri on a deer farm, with her mum Christine and dad Grant. I didn't really do that much farm work what with mainly spending time with Georgia - but did get to help tag some fawns and also help treat a lamb that was badly flystruck. Mmmmmm maggots.


I'm usually only babysitting in the afternoons so have been able to get out and about for some adventures in the mornings.

Picture from a bike ride with Brian's mum Bev.


The day was finished off relaxing on the balcony outside (or deck as they like to call it here - amusingly and confusingly pronounced dick...) watching the sky change.


The next day started off not quite so sunny, but I decided to brave it anyway and head off up Mt Luxmore earlyish. Got this fantastic rainbow as a result...


And also the first Kea that I've seen in the wild on the way up the mountain (the summit of Mt Luxmore is in the background) to Luxmore Hut. This is the first stretch of the Kepler track, and incredibly scenic. But also quite busy and windy.

A couple of days later I did the Circle Track on Lake Manapouri early in the morning. More super early morning scenery - lots of mist around the valley.

This was a lovely little walk, mainly through bush, but with a little stretch along the beach at the end. Did plan to do a bit of sunbathing, but the sandflies decided it was lunch time...


Then on my second last day I decided to give Postman Pat a treat with a drive up to Milford sound. Here is Pat enjoying the scenery.



After getting a bit hot and bothered Pat wanted to go for a swim in Lake Gunn, but I managed to stick the handbrake on just in time. Plan to get inflattables fitted soon though so that we can do a bit of sailing...

It was a bit cloudy when we got to Milford - but made for some dramatic pictures. Not how it looks on the postcard - but I quite like it - probably more representative of Fiordland weather.


There's a couple of really nice short tramps around Milford. Up to Key Summit was pretty good - two hours up and one down, with a DOC ranger at the bottom giving out sweets (if you fill in a questionairre of course, but I took it to be a reward). But best of all was the walk up to Lake Marian and Lake Marian itself. The track was a little steep in places, but good fun over tree roots and up dried up river beds. And also a lot quieter than the Key summit track which made for a very peaceful walk. Then Lake Marian. Which was just beautiful. This picture doesn't really do it justice... But when I got there there was only one other person, and he was chilling out playing th e harmonica, which echoed sweetly up the valley. Swimming in the Lake was brilliant - clear turquoise water (if that makes sense!) - straight from the glaciers right above. I think possibly my best swim in NZ so far.


Enjoying random road signs along the way, including this one -


Where is the question mark? Is this a question or a statement? Men:Women::Female:Male? A good road sign anyhow, but not so sure what it is trying to say. Other amusing gender things - just was in a second hand bookstore in Wanaka that classified all its books by either "Male Authors", "Female Authors", or "War". Made for slightly random browsing at least.

My favourite vegetable...

Has to be Garlic. Soooo yummy roasted whole, rubbed onto bread, fried with kale. And also very satisfying to harvest and pretty to plait.

I've been doing lots of gardening over the last week at a community farm just north of Dunedin. It's been a fantastic week of discovering new things about gardening, such as comfry being a fantastic mulch, apart from for potatoes who prefer pine needles, that some people like to garden using lunar calendars which indicate when a plant is drawing energy into its roots or pushing energy into its leaves/fruit, how to make a wormery, that radishes provide a good growing mulch for brasicas and that guinea pigs are the best lawn mowers, and that buttercup and convulvula are by far my least/most favourite weeds depending on how you look at things.

This is the view from the garden on a misty morning -


Many exciting new discoveries have been made in the kitchen as well - the most peculiar by far being that marmite and strawberry jam make for a very tasty mix! Crazy I know. I was skeptical at first too, but just try it... (I also hear that they are bringning out a new flavour marmite in the UK made from Guiness - is this true?) People seem to love marmite here even more than they do in the UK - I've not been to a house yet that doesn't have at least one jar.

Other kitchen discoveries are date and cabbage salad - yummy I promise just try it! And the best ever vegan chocolate brownie recipe ever made with raspberries picked in the garden.

The place I'm staying is an intentional community called Volco (short for voluntary co-operation) that was set up well over 20 years ago. There's about 8 residents and a fair few more people who contribute their time and energies to the garden and other stuff too. It's been really interesting to see how the folks here make things work. Everyone seems to be very thoughtful about how they are interacting with others which makes for a very interesting time. Lots of creative play going on - including this mother oven -


Dunedin itself is a great little city. Sister city to Edinburgh so they say. It even has an Arden St, Princes St, The water of Leith running throught the Botanic Gardens etc etc...

Here's some pictures from the Botanics - this is a crazy fly eating plant - the picture should technically be the other way up, but I quite like it like this...


And a beautiful raindropped rose from the sweet scented rose garden -


I had an awesome time on Saturday night celebrating the Chinese New Year here. There were dragons and singing and all sorts of food stalls and bits and pieces going on. Then fireworks at midnight (typical though that as soon as I got my camera out it all finished... humphh). This all conincided with freshers week shenanigans - so lots of very young looking people running around doing silly things, making me feel very old, but I also got IDd 3 times making me feel ridiculously young - I think it was the pigtails and wooly cardy that confused them.

And the charity shops here rock!! Look NEW SHOES! Well, now that I have a car I may as well fill it with something!

Here's some piccies of the Otago peninsular, which is pretty. The boat house with an interesting colour choice is actually at Portobello Bay (Scottish namesakes continue).

Ich bin Roz, ein lustiges Madchen aus England

I've been at Curio Bay now for a week working at the Dolphin Surf backpackers and doing some serious repairing and relaxing after Dusky. It is surfers paradise here. Porpouise Bay is a vast half-moon shaped bay encircling fantastic waves and 18 playful Hector Dolphins - the smallest dolphin and very rare.

Surfing lessons -


My best experience here was my first ever surf lesson one morning. Not much surfing was done (I think I managed to stand up once - I don't remember standing up but someone said they saw me so...!) but it was so amazing feeling the rise and fall of the huge waves and having the dolphins come join us, watching geese fly overhead and turns diving. I was a happy little Roz part of the huge ocean and animal world.


It is amazing to see the beach so empty all the time - but funnily enough have bumped into Venetia, to mum of Katie, an old school friend. I know the population of NZ is small and not that many people come here, but it was a hell of a coincidence!!

Rare things flock here. There is the yellow eyed penguin that nests on Curio Bay and can be seen at the crack of dawn/dusk waddeling and jumping up and down the beach to its nest. Happy feet indeed.



Then there is the petrified forest - only slightly scary after dark and a few silly ghost stories. A fossilised forest from way back - its awesome the way that the rocks look just like logs that were too wet to burn in the fire.

My day usually starts pretty relaxed here - wake up early and read on the deck (confusingly pronounced dick by the locals - much embarassment and laughter....!), watch some dolphins and the surf. Clean from 10ish til 12ish. Lunch then hang out wandering on the beach, weaving flax, watching the tide turn, exploring lovely waterfalls...



Or spokey caves...

Or watching the sunset over Stewart Island... (it is worth downloading this image and looking at the silhouette of Stewart Island in more detail)


I've met some really lovely people. Ana from London has been my cleaning buddy for this week - she's full of hilarity. And Clara is my new cleaning buddy and German teacher. Nick and Tomo run the hostel and are very chilled out and easy going. It's nice working in this hostel - the atmosphere is great so you get to know everyone that stays.

The town/village here is tiny - apparently only 11 people live here all year round! Outnumbered by the local population of two of the most rarist animals in NZ! But a fair amount of tourists come through, especially Germans for some reason. My German is improving daily.

This is a lvely beach near Nugget Point -

On to the bright lights and big population of Dunedin next. That'll be a shock to the system!

So long Curio Bay





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Here's some more pics from the Dusky that accidentally got onto this one - confusion with computers...

The weary wanderers kiss the boat Lake Hauroko speedy little boat rushing over the waves

When there's nothing left to burn... drink rum?

I survived the Dusky Track!! Yes it was wet. Yes it was muddy. Yes it was cold. Yes the sandflies were bastards. But it was fun, and I may well do it again (you may call me crazy).

Day one started with a helicopter ride from Tuatapere to Supper Cove (which was named by Cook when he came in there for Supper one night). My first ever ride in a helicopter. Tis a great thrill and you get fantastic views - though it was a little leaky when the rain starts!

The further we headed over the mountains into Fiordland the more and more the cloud thickened and turned into rain, making things look a little ominous. But when we landed at Supper cove the rain had stopped. The sandflies on the other hand were quite abundant, and so we all dived into the hut for some lunch, and spent the rest of the day in there avoiding the rain and sandflies.

There was one little ray of sunshine that day, which produced this lovely rainbow.

Then the next morning we set off, feeling intrepid and adventurous, for Loch Maree hut. The tramping was pretty tricky underfoot and quite invisible had it not been for the odd orange path marker and our guides Graeme and Brian. When it came to crossing the much anticiapted 3 wire bridges we were all relieved to have something straight and simple to walk along!


Lonely Planet says that the Dusky is the least populated of all Fiordland walks (possibly all walks in NZ), with an average of 500 people doing it a year, so when we finally arrived at Loch Maree we were quite suprised to find out that we'd be sharing the hut with 14 other people. A hut meant to sleep 12 actually fitted in 21 people - it was a cosy experience! But it made for a nice atmosphere in the hut with lots of stories swapped about tracks and troubles and travels.

That night the rain poured and poured and by the morning the next section of the track had become totally flooded and unpassable so we all had to spend another night in the hut contemplating raft building techniques, stretching out rations of food and learning new card games. In the brief spell of sunshine that day I also went for one of the best swims I've ever had in Loch Maree. We found a huge log that was floating by the side of the Loch and managed to punt if out into the loch and use it as a diving board. Great fun - very refreshing!

The next morning started off with a chest deep wade across the still flooded path. I was amazed at how much the water level had gone down from the previous day (roughly 2 meters) and still we had to wade! Then a steep climb up towards Lake Roe hut. Unfortunately when we got above the tree level the relentless cloud didn't lift meaning we missed some spectacular views. It was also quite amazing how much the temperature dropped as we hit the tops of the hills, and I was very relieved to be greeted at Lake Roe hut by a cup of tea thanks muchly to Chris and Ben.

Man it was cooooollllllld in Lake Roe Hut! I still haven't decided whether I prefer warm hut and sandflies or cold hut and no sandflies. That night we tried desperately to warm up the hut with what little dry wood and coal there was so as to dry up our boots and clothes a bit for the next day, but the stove was rubbish, so in the end we just drank rum!

The low point of the trip was definitely the next morning (!!!) after having a not great night sleep (even though I finally had a mattress instead of the floor), the prospect of putting on the frozen blocks of ice that had taken over my boots was not pleasant. But it was done, and after half an hour of walking I started to feel my feet again.

In my hour of need I learnt a great/terrible joke:
one Catholic, one Buddhist, one Jew debating when life begins:
Catholic: surely it is when the sperm fertilises the egg - this is where it all begins.
Buddhist: life does not begin but works in cycles: before I was a man I was a ladybird and before that who knows.
Jew: No, no, no. That is all wrong. Life begins when the kids leave home, the dog dies and you retire.

And then the sun came out. That afternoon's walking was lovely, with lots of birds chirping about us in the sunshine, including one incredibly friendly Robin (not red breasted like its British name sake, but similar in character) who landed on Brian's boot. Alas the wee beasty didn't stay long enough for a picture.

Our final night was spent in Halfway hut, where there is a fantastic but very brisk swimming hole, and plentiful firewood, and much scroggin sorting. Then an early start the next day to get to Lake Huroko for the boat. And after a fairly fast paced walk we were all pretty glad to see the boat. I wasn't going to kiss the boat but it sure was a nice site. This is a nice picture of our guide Graeme enjoying the boat ride back.

Finally arriving back at the pub in Tuatapere I had already started thinking of the next Dusky adventure. Graeme, the guide, has offered me a place on his next Dusky in May... very tempting.